Friday, 15 October 2010

Words, Markets, Thoughts, School and Pictures

For those of you who (I'm sure) anxiously wait to read what I write about myself, my apologies for the length of time that has passed since I last posted.  This one is especially long just for you.  I've even split it into sections so you could make reading this a multi-day affair.
School has finally started and I am so grateful for the purpose, routine, and reading materials it has provided me!  It was honestly a difficult summer once I was out of work and without something to keep me busy, and then once in London and without a hubby, a difficult week before a routine was established.  Even with a schedule my sleep pattern is still horrendous.  No worries though, you worriers.  It's all getting better!
London:
Today I celebrate the one month anniversary of living in London.  I love this city more each day, especially as I acclimate and find those places I know I will frequent (pubs, restaurants, parks, libraries).  Since my trip down to the Sunday UpMarket and Spitalfields Market I have been to the Camden and Stables Market (terribly busy and chintzy, even on a weekday when it's pouring outside, like the day I went).  Apparently it's a huge tourist attraction, but wasn't quite for me.  I also visited Covent Garden Market, which I liked much better.  It was cleaner and classier.  The market is right up against St. Paul's Church (not to be confused with St. Paul's Cathedral) and is known for the performers who juggle, sing, etc. for the crowds that gather in the square behind the church.  The first time I went was on a weekday.  I then decided to go again the same weekend and though the crowds were stifling, there was more to be found in the way of entertainment.  I spent 20 minutes in the square during a light drizzle, eating a traditional cornish pasty (if you get them from the right place they are amazing) listening to a guy perform a Jason Mraz medley and watching a crazy lady 'dance' along on the sidewalk next.    'Jack Sparrow' was also there standing beside one moving statue painted completely in gold, and another in silver.  I thought Covent Garden was much more pleasant during the week, even if you do miss the weekend performers.  The best time to go to a market is as things slow down in the late afternoon.  The food vendors sell their wares for half price, and yes, I know it's been sitting there for hours now, but it's still good (and half price!).  On the list still to visit is Portobello Road Market and Borough Market, known for it's fruit and veg/farmer's market.  Other exploring in the last couple weeks has included a day trip out to Hampton Court Palace- one of Henry VIII's and supposedly haunted by one of his wives.  It's also an interesting mix of Tudor and Georgian architecture.  I also wandered through another portion of the Victoria and Albert Museum and from there walked over to Kensington Gardens, saw the Royal Albert Hall, the ostentatious Prince Albert Memorial, Kensington Palace and ended up on Kensington Gardens Street, where I walked by the Romanian Embassy, Royal Norwegian Embassy and French Embassy among others.  Beautiful houses with intimidating black gates, and cameras on every wall.  That night I actually walked about 3/4 of the way around Hyde Park- and it's not a small park!  This past Sunday I walked over to and around Regent's Park and loved it.  It's absolutely gorgeous.
The last two weeks have also been an exploration of libraries.  As a graduate student in central London I have access to the Institute of Historical Research, the impressive UCL Main library (if you've seen Inception, apparently a scene was filmed in the foyer), the Warburg Institute, Senate House Library, and the British Library, which counts among its many treasures two complete Gutenberg Bibles and two of only four surviving copies of the Magna Carta.  I now have four (count them) four library cards!  The truly wonderful thing is all of these are only about a 10-15 minute walk from my flat.
7/7:
Now that I no longer have the very professional and completely impartial journalism of Q13 Fox News to inform me about all the important things happening in the world (oh, how I miss James Lynch), I've instead, albeit reluctantly (winking face), turned to BBC for my news.  One of the stories they've been following lately has been an inquest into the July 7, 2005 London transport bombings.  I have to admit, I really didn't know much about them until just recently, and it's come as a real shock to realize two of the four bombs detonated by suicide bombers were very close to where I now live and study.  One was underground on the Picadilly Line just between Russell Square and King's Cross- Russell Square station is literally a block from my flat and King's Cross is only a seven minute walk away.  In fact, the Picadilly Line is the one I most frequently take when traveling on the Tube.  The other exploded on a bus on Tavistock Square, which I walk everyday on my way to campus.  I don't include this in the blog just to be macabre.  This blog is about my experience in what is my home for the next year, and this has certainly shattered some of my initial suppositions and assumptions about how I would relate to and experience London.  Knowing now what I know makes being in those places...different.  I think sometimes we as Americans feel we hold the market on suffering at the hands of extreme terrorist violence, and though the loss of life in numbers that day (52) was much less than that of 9/11, it certainly doesn't make that loss any less tragic.
I suppose having this type of (I don't think eye-opening is the right expression, but maybe thought-turning) experience is exactly why PLU pushes their students to study away.  As an admission counselor I messaged- very well, I'll argue- how impactful and changing study away can be...how funny I'm now actually undergoing those impressions.  I knew I would, but I wasn't certainly wasn't expecting all of them.  
School:
I do like being a student again.  It's different- I have four classes, which are held for only two hours once a week.  I have one class each day Monday-Thursday, and none before 11am.  (That's most likely a strong contributing factor to my out-of-whack sleeping pattern).  Monday is 'The Public Sphere in Britain 1476-1800'- a little dry but I don't mind it.  Tuesday I walk over to the Strand campus of King's College (about a half hour away) for an intercollegiate option 'New Perspectives on Early Modern Religion.'  Really enjoy that class so far- it really is amazing to see the engagement a conscientious, intentional and talented professor can pull out of students.  Wednesday the Core Masters Methodologies and Research course, where for the time-being we have combined with the MA History students (I'm an MA European History student, remember).  This Wednesday we tried to wrap our heads around Weber's 'ideal type,' a social science methodology that's...never mind.  I'm not even going to attempt it.  And Thursday is Spanish Level B (intermediate), where I have 5 years on each of the other students (I feel kind of old).  I'm filling up much of the rest of the time with reading- lots of reading.
UCL is a fairly exciting place to be.  It's only since being here that I've realized how prestigious the school really is.  Of course there's self bragging (my MA tutor consistently 'extols its many virtues'), but I'm finding there's some merit in it.  Apparently, UCL is a part of the 'triumvirate' of universities in England, alongside Cambridge and Oxford, and has been ranked 4th in the world by QS World University Rankings.  Now, my friends in higher education know just how meaningful (or not) these rankings can be, and have a healthy skepticism about how exactly organizations go about ranking schools- but my friends in higher education admission also know that if you are ranked well- you brag about it.  At any rate, I feel more each day I made a wise choice in deciding to do part of my postgrad work here.  Other fun facts about UCL: it was the first university in the UK to admit people regardless of religious affiliation (or lack thereof), and the first to admit women on an equal basis with men.  Alumni include the first prime minister of Japan, Alexander Graham Bell, Ricky Gervais, Christopher Nolan, the entire band of Coldplay, 21 Nobel Prize winners, and Mahatma Gandhi.  That's right folks, I'm going to school where Gandhi was educated.
Photos: Yay!  For those of you patient enough to read my ramblings, you'll now be rewarded with the latest photos.  I'll try to post a little more frequently, but make no promises.  Hope you are well.  Love, Emily
Lookit what I found!  It's an ad agency on one of the streets very close to my flat.
Hampton Court Palace- the Tudor front
Hampton Court Palace- the Georgian back 
Hampton Court Palace- the yeomen's chamber, completely decorated in weaponry

The King's throne
The King's other throne
In the Tudor part of the palace- the Great Hall


English Garden
Victoria & Albert Museum- a turban brooch
V&A- Indian playing cards and chess set
V&A- Valour and Cowardice
V&A- Truth and Falsehood (she's pulling out his forked tongue)
V&A- Buddha (Tibetan)
Outside the V&A
The Prince Albert Memorial
Prince Albert Memorial, and behind it, the Royal Albert Hall
Kensington Gardens- an Anish Kapoor sculpture.  I'm the one in the middle, taking the picture.
Oliver, the bulldog.  He loved that basketball.  Apparently he's a very rare type of bulldog (one of six his owner told me), but I haven't been able to find any information, so I have to admit I'm a little skeptical.  But he was still awesome.  I miss my pups.
Round Pond and Kensington Palace
'Newton' at the British Library
British Library
Regent's Park, Queen's Gardens 


London Central Islamic Centre & Mosque, just on the edge of Regent's Park
Is it a duck?  A goose?  It was huge!
On the way home from Regent's Park, thought I'd hop over to Baker Street
  

Sunday, 26 September 2010

Sunday adventures

I know I just posted yesterday, but I wanted to (briefly, I promise) share some of my adventures today.  It was my first day wandering the city solo, and I went east to Liverpool Street.  It's just north of the Tower of London, and it's where many of London's high rise buildings are located (surprisingly, there really are few here), including 'the Gherkin,' the sixth tallest building in London.  Found a jewel of a market called the Sunday UpMarket, with great vendors, interesting stuff, and much better prices than the more upscale nearby Spitalfields Market.  Just up from the Sunday UpMarket is a food hall that looked and smelled wonderful the minute you stepped in.  Lots of international cuisine choices, and I had myself a tasty and filling chicken tandoori with rice.  Each vendor had huge simmering dishes to choose from (see the photo below).
On three separate occasions today I was asked for directions.  I can only assume that I must look approachable and/or like I know where I'm going.  I wish both were true, but I had to tell people today that I barely knew where I was!
The 'Gherkin'

Brick Lane, on which the Sunday UpMarket is located in an old brewery.  Lots of people!

This picture is primarily for Chad's benefit.  They were really good!

Huge amounts of tantalizing food


Saturday, 25 September 2010

First Impressions

Well, I've completely bought into the 'me' generation, and I'm writing a blog- mostly prompted by the fact that I am embarking on a fairly huge life adventure, and this may be one of the easier ways for me to record this adventure and stay connected with those back home.
I've now been in London for ten days, with today being the first without Chad.  I took him to the airport this morning and of course there were tears on my side- it's going to be a huge adjustment to not be a daily physical presence in each other's lives.  Right now, though, I don't think I've quite registered emotionally how hard it's going to be.  I really do have an incredible, amazingly supportive husband and I'm so thankful for him, and already miss him, but December will come quickly.
We had fun exploring London (after sleeping the entire first day), and did many of the main tourist activities: saw the London Tower, Parliament Building and Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, St. Paul's Cathedral, Hyde Park, and Picadilly Circus.  We skipped over Madame Tussauds, though. We rode the London Eye and took a day trip with a tour group to Stonehenge and Bath.  I think one of my favorite things about London so far is that their museums are free, and they have some wonderful museums- we wandered around the Victoria & Albert Museum (with a huge Chihuly piece in the entrance), the Imperial War Museum, and did a couple trips to the incredible British Museum, which is only a five minute walk from my flat.
I'm fairly certain I'm going to love living here, even with the homesickness and missing Chad and the pups.  London truly is a global city.  I read somewhere there are around 300 languages spoken here, and I believe it.  It's hard to walk down the street or into a shop or pub and not hear at least two or three different languages being spoken.  The traffic is crazy and I'm afraid I'm going to get hit one of these days by a car or bicycle- fortunately many of the street crossings tell you which way to look.  It's a very pedestrian friendly city, and is on its way to becoming a very bike friendly city.  I've seen lots of cyclists every day.  You can actually rent (or hire) bikes from 'kiosks' all over the city- an initiative by the mayor, Boris Johnson.  Pretty impressive.  I've seen lots of public recycling bins along the streets, which makes sustainability freak like me very happy.  The public transportation, especially the Underground or Tube, is amazing, although I'm pretty sure using it has given me a cold.  I've been told I'll build an immunity.  I think I'll be using my antibacterial lotion much more frequently.  Chad doesn't like how crowded and busy London feels, but I get an impression of energy and vitality from the city.
I still have yet to be blown away by the food, though we did have a fish and chips last night that was quite delicious- after just a little bit of salt.  Not a fan of the mushy peas that came along with it, however.  I need to do some more exploring- we didn't really eat out too much.   Went out to a few pubs, and I really love the atmosphere, but Chad hasn't been impressed with the beer.  Like the food, lacking in flavor.  I, however, found cider!  Now I can have a pint with everyone else instead of always resorting to wine.
I'm living in a studio flat in an intercollegiate hall, called International Hall, with about 800 residents.  I've attached some photos of my flat...if you're trying to get an idea of size, think hotel room.  It's in a wonderful spot- right by a nice shopping square with a great grocery store, by an Underground station on the line directly to Heathrow airport, and only a 10-15 minute walk to the UCL campus.  It's a very nice neighborhood, and within reasonable walking distance to a lot of great London places.  I feel incredibly blessed to be here...now I just need to start school and get into a routine.  Next week is induction week, and classes start the week after that.
I've posted some photos of our adventures- hope you enjoy!
By the way, my address is 4C29 International Hall, Landsdowne Terrace, London, WC1N 1AS.
The New Flat


My New School!

At Westminster Abbey

View from the London Eye


Chad at Hyde Park

Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace

Hanging out in Trafalgar Square

Chihuly in London! (Victoria & Albert Museum)


Do I really need to tell you what this is?

View of the Millennium Bridge from the (almost) top of St. Paul's Cathedral

View of St. Paul's from the Millennium Bridge